These are my go to present for any new parents. Really easy and the contrasting toe, heel and cuff looks really cute.
Using Drops Alpaca 4ply in pink (MC) and pistachio (CC) Using 2.5mm needles and CC yarn Cast on 20 sts using long tail magic cast on*
*I know a lot of people use Judy’s Magic Cast on for toe up socks but I was completely bamboozled by it so instead, I use a double knitting version – seen here: Long tail magic cast on
Place marker, with 10sts for bottom of sock and 10sts for top of sock, split these across 4 needles (or circular if you prefer)
Row 1: knit
Row 2: k1, m1, k til one st remains of bottom sock stitches, m1, k1, k1 (1st of top of sock), k til one st remain, m1, k1
Repeat these two rows until there are 36 sts in total
Change to MC and repeat these two rows once more
(40 sts in total – 20 sts for top of foot, 20 sts for sole)
Continue knitting round until 1-1.5cm from heel.
Turning the heel
Using only the 20sts from bottom of the foot, turn and purl until 1st remains, turn
Knit row: Re-introduce CC, knit until 1st left, turn,
Next row: purl until 2st from end, turn,
Continue until there are 5 sts ‘left’ on each side (10 heel stitches)
Next row: Knit until last 5sts, ssk, m1, turn
Next row: purl until last 5sts, p2tog, m1, turn
Continue this way until all sts are reintroduced
Leg cuff
Knit row: reintroduce MC and knit round whole sock
Knit straight for 2-3cm
Next round: reintroduce CC, K1tbl, p1 repeat for 10rows
Cast off using stretchy magic cast off method
The third in my series of cable knit long gloves – this time with fingers and using a cable pattern called Fishernet. This is a 24row cable pattern which may seem daunting but is fairly easy to work out once you’ve done the first repeat.
Using 3.75mm needles and DK yarn – bought mine from the wonderful King Craig Fabrics in Scotland
Abbreviations:
t3b – slip next st onto cable needle, hold at back, knit next 2 sts, then purl st from cable needle
T3f – slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, purl next sts then knit sts from cable needle
C4b (or c4f) – slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back (or front), knit next 2 sts then knit 2 sts from cable needle
Cast on 56sts, join in round, place marker
Cuff: K2, p2 for 10 rounds
Main arm throughout: k18sts, then 18st cable pattern, then 20sts to marker
Row 1: p2, T3F, T3B, p2,T3F, T3B, p2
Row2: p3, k4, p4, k4, p3
Row 3: p3, c4f, p4, c4f, p3
Row 4: p3, k4, p4. K4, p3
Row 5: p2, t3b, t3f, p2, t3b, t3f, p2
Row 6: p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2
Rows 7-12: repeat the above 6 rows
Row 13: p1, t3b, p2, t3f, t3b, p2, t3f, p1
Row 14: p1, k2, p4, k4, p4, k2, p1
Row 15: p1, k2, p4, c4b, p4, k2, p1
Row 16: as per row 14
Row 17: p1, k2, p3, t3b, t3f, p3, k2, p1
Row 18: p1, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, p1
Row 19: p1, k2, p3, t3f, t3b, p3, k2, p1
Row 20: p1, k2, p4, k4, p4, k2, p1
Row 21: p1, k2, p4, c4b, p4, k2, p1
Row 22: p1, k2, p4, k4, p4, k2, p1
Row 23: p1, t3f, p2, t3b, t3f, p2, t3b, p1
Row 24: p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2
Wrist shaping
Repeat 24 rows once more, decreasing 2sts on rows 6, 12, 18 & 24 (until 48 sts) by using the following method:
12 sts before cable pattern: ssk, k10, continue in cable pattern, knit 10sts after cable pattern, k2tog
Thumb Gusset (left hand)
Continuing in cable pattern
Next round: knit until 7 sts before cable pattern – p1, k1, p1, k4, begin repeat of 24 row cable pattern
2nd round, repeat as above
3rd round: knit until7 sts before cable – p1, m1, k1, m1, p1
Next round: knit to the first purl stitch, p1, k to second purl stitch, p1, work rest of pattern
Next round: as above
Next round: knit to first purl stitch, p1, m1, k to second purl stitch, m1, p1, work rest of pattern
Repeat these 3 rows til end of 24 row repeats
Repeat first 12 rows of cable pattern again with no increases but continuing with purl gusset, then put thumb sts (all 17 between purl sts) onto waste yarn like so:
Thumb gusset:
Knit to the stitches to put on waste yarn, knit the purl stitch, slip 17 stitches onto waste yarn, knit to the end of the needle.
Cast on one st and rejoin the gap (48sts in hand)
Continue with cable pattern until 24th row done
Fingers
PLEASE NOTE: this is the first time I’ve written a pattern for cabled fingers, so please bear with me, the initial “cable” sts in the 1st row will line up with those from the cable pattern in the hand so if it is unclear where the start of a round is, please work backwards from these sts and place a marker at this point. By this stage in the pattern you’ll be so used to the cabling process that it should come as second nature to you, I hope!
Ensuring the glove is folded in half along the thumb gap(24 palm sts and 24 back of hand sts), keep 7 sts from the back of the hand and 7 sts from the palm of the hand across three needles and put all other hand stitches on waste canvas (34sts)
Left Finger 1
With 14 sts on needles, rejoin yarn by cast on 1 stitch between gap (on inside of finger)Round 1: starting K10, p2, k2, p1
2: k8, t3f, p1, k2, p1
3: k8, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1
4: k8, p1, k2, t3b, p1
5: k8, p1, k4, p2
6: k8, p1, c4b, p2
7: k8, p1, k4, p2
8: k8, p1, k2, t3b, p1
9: k8, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1
10: k8, p1, t3f, k2, p1
11: k8, p2, k4, p1
12: k8, p2, c4b, p1
13: k8, p2, k4, p1
14: k8, p1, t3f, k2, p1
15: k8, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1
16-19: as round 15
Cast off
Finger 2
Put 6 sts from palm on needle and 6 sts from top of hand on needle, pick up 3 sts from base of finger 1 (15 sts)
Row 1: k9, p2, k2, p2, CO2
Row 2: K9, p1, t3b, p2, k2
Row 3: K9, p1, k2, p3, k2
Row 4: k9, p1, k2, p2, t3b
Row 5: k9, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1
Row 6: k9, p1, t3f, t3b, p1
Row 7: k9, p2, k4, p2
Row 8: k9 p2, c4b, p2
Row 9 and 10: k9, p2, k4, p2
Row 11: k9, p2, c4b, p2
Row 12: k9, p2, k4, p2
Row 13: k9, p1, t3b, t3f, p1
Row 14: k9, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1
Row 15: k9, p1, t3f, t3b, p1
Row 16-19: Repeat rounds 8-11
Cast off
Finger 3
Put 6 palm and 6 top sts on needles, pick up 3 from the base of finger 2 and cast on 1 between gap
1: k8, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1
2: k8, p1, t3f, t3b, p1
3: k8, p2, k4, p2
4: k8, p2, c4f, p2
5&6: k8, p2, k4, p2
7&8: repeat rounds 4&5
9: k8, p1, t3b, t3f, p1
10-19: repeat rounds 1-9
Cast off
Finger 4
Put remaining 10 sts on needles and pick up three from base of finger 3 (13sts)
Knit every round until desired length
Cast off
Thumb
Pick up 17sts from waste yarn, pick up 5 sts on thumb base*, knit until desired length, cast off.
*if this isn’t enough to ensure no gaps, pick up more sts and decrease them using ssk or k2tog in the first round
Thumb gusset (right hand)
After cable pattern: k4, p1, k1, p1
Repeat as per left thumb
Weave in all ends
T3F (Twist 3 Front) – slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next st from left hand needl, then knit sts from cable needle
T3B (Twist 3 Back) – slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left hand needle, then purl st from cable needle
C4F – slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold in front of work, knit next 2 sts from left hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle
C4B – slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left left hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle
3.5 mm DPNS (or circular needles if you prefer)
Aran yarn (I used Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran)
CO56 sts using long tail method place marker before joining.
Rib for 8 rows (k2,p2)
Left glove
Knit 22 sts from the marker and start cable pattern (when not knitting the cable pattern, you knit round)
(unlike my previous pattern there is no knit row between the ribbing and the cable as the cables appear to continue the rib
Cable pattern
Round 1: p2, k2, p2, t3f, t3b, p2, k2, p2
Round 2 and all even rounds: knit the knit sts, purl the purl sts
Round 3: p2, t3f, p2, c4f, p2, t3b, p2
Round 5: p3, t3f, t3b, t3f, t3b, p3
Round 7: p4, c4b, p2, c4b, p4
Round 9: p3, t3b, t3f, t3b, t3f, p3
Round 11: p2, t3b, p2, c4f, p2, t3f, p2
Round 13: p2, k2, p2, t3b, t3f, p2, k2, p2
In this pattern I have worked the cable pattern a total of 7 times.
After 1st repeat of the pattern, start shaping for the wrist.
Wrist/arm shaping:
Dec 2sts either side of the cable pattern on rounds 2 and 9 for the next 3 repeats of the pattern (12 st dec in total) as follows:
(1st repeat)
Round 2: knit to 12 sts BEFORE cable pattern, ssk, k10, cable pattern next 18sts, k10, k2tog, knit to marker
Round 9: repeat as above
(2nd repeat)
Round 2: knit to 11sts BEFORE cable pattern, ssk, k9, cable pattern next 18sts, k9, k2tog, knit to market
Round 9: as above
(3rd repeat)
Round 2: knit to 10 std BEFORE cable pattern, ssk, k9, cable pattern next 18sts, k8, k2tog, knit to market
Round 9: as above
44sts in total
Thumb gusset (left glove)
On the 5th repeat of the cable pattern, begin the thumb gusset, from marker, repeat the following 14 rows in conjunction with the cable pattern
Round 1: K7, p1, k2, p1, k5, continue in cable pattern (on each occasion)
Round 2: k7, p1, m1, k2, m1, p1, k5
Round 3 & 4: k7, p1, k4, p1, k5
Round 5: k7, p1, m1, k4, m1, p1, k5
Round 6: k7, p1, k6, p1, k5
Round 7: K7, p1, k6, p1, k5
Round 8: k7, p1, m1, k6, m1, p1, k5
Round 9 & 10: k7, p1, k8, p1, k5
Round 11: k7, p1, m1, k8, m1, p1, k5
Round 12: k7, p1, k10, p1, k5
Round 13: K7, p1, k10, p1, k5
Round 14: k7, p1, m1, k10, m1, p1, k5
(54 sts in total)
Repeat cable pattern once more with no increases in the thumb gusset (but continue purling the purl stitches)
After this repeat (6 cable repeats in total), put 12 thumb sts onto waste yarn, CO 6 sts and rejoin yarn (48sts) and repeat the cable pattern one last time.
Ribbing
Starting P2, K2, rib for 4 rows, Cast off in rib.
Rejoin Thumb
Put 12 sts back on the needle, pick up 6 sts across the gap by the hand, knit 1 row.
On next row, decrease 2 sts across the gap 6 sts: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1
Knit 2 more rows then 4 rows of k2, p2, ribbing, Cast off in rib
Weave in ends.
Right Glove
Exactly the same as the left glove EXCEPT:
18 sts after the marker, start cable pattern
Thumb gusset (right glove)
AFTER the Cable Pattern
Round 1: k5, p1, k2, p1, knit 7 (til marker)
Round 2: k5, p1, m1, k2, m1, p1, k7
Round 3 & 4: k5, p1, k4, p1, k7
Round 5: k5, p1, m1, k4, m1, p1, k7
Round 6: k5, p1, k6, p1, k7
Round 7: K5, p1, k6, p1, k7
Round 8: k5, p1, m1, k6, m1, p1, k7
Round 9 & 10: k5, p1, k8, p1, k7
Round 11: k5, p1, m1, k8, m1, p1, k7
Round 12: k5, p1, k10, p1, k7
Round 13: K5, p1, k10, p1, k7
Round 14: k5, p1, m1, k10, m1, p1, k7
Please note: there is another, gorgeous pattern on Ravelry that uses this cable pattern but is very different in construction. If you’re after a shorter pair, without the wrist shaping – this pattern may be for you: Vancouver Fog Mitts
This is a pattern for a gorgeously long, warm pair of cable fingerless mittens. So thick and warm, they’re almost sweater sleeves!
Knitted for a friend, I was very sad to see them go, especially in this cold weather.
This is the first of a few cable mitten patterns I intend to put up over the next couple of weeks, once I get them typed up from the back of envelope stage!
Abbreviations:
C8F = Move next 4 stitches to cable needle and hold in FRONT, knit next 4 stitches, then knit 4 on cable
C8B = Move next 4 stitches to cable needle and hold in BACK
Using aran weight yarn and 3.5 mm needles (this gives a really tight neat finish, perfect for gloves so the wind can’t get in)
CO 60 sts using long tail cast on (or any cast on you like to do)
Join, place marker and rib (k2, p2) for 10 rounds
Knit 1 round
Start cable pattern
20 sts from the marker start cable pattern, this is an 8 round pattern with 4 purl stitches either side.
Round 1: p4, knit 12, p4
Round 2: p4, k12, p4
Round 3: p4, C8F, k4, p4
Round 4: p4, k12, p4
Round 5: p4, k12, p4
Round 6: p4, k12, p4
Round 7: p4, K4, C8B, p4
Round 8: p4, k12, p4
During this 8th Round (and every 8th round after) there is a 2 stitch decrease:
Dec 1 stitch 10sts AFTER the marker (using ssk) and 1 stitch 10sts BEFORE the marker (using k2tog), this will create a dart up the side of the glove, creating shaping in the wrist.
Repeat the cable pattern (including the decrease stitches) 6 times in total (48sts)
Thumb gusset (left glove)
Starting on the 1st row of the cable pattern, begin creating the thumb gusset, 8sts BEFORE the cable pattern starts (including the purl stitches)
Round 1: p1, k2, p1
Round 2: p1, k2, p1
Round 3: p1, m1, k2, m1, p1
Round 4: p1, k4, p1
Round 5: p1, K4, p1
Round 6: p1, K4, p1
Round 7: p1, m1, K4, m1, p1
Round 8: p1, k6, p1
Repeat until 14sts between the the two purl stitches (60 sts total)
For the next 8 rows (1 repeat of the cable pattern), continue straight, purling the gusset stitches as you find them
Next round:
Move the 14 sts between the purl stitches onto some waste yarn, cast on 2 sts and join after the gap.
Continue to knit hand for one more repeat of the pattern (twice if you want the hand/finger part) to be really long)
After final 8th round of the cable pattern:
Knit one round
Rib (k2, p2) for 5 rows and CO
Thumb gusset (right glove)
Exactly the same as for the left glove EXCEPT start the gusset 4sts AFTER the cable pattern (including the purl stitches)
Thumb
Put 14sts back on the needles, knit round, pick up 4 stitches along the hand edge and join (18sts)
Next row: knit round until the last 6 sts (2 sts plus those you just picked up) and ssk, k2, k2tog (16sts)
Next row: knit
Last rows: rib (k2, p2) for 5 rows
CO
Weave in ends, wear, LOVE.
So I made up another sock pattern for another friend who turned 30 in July
Sue is a woman not afraid of colour which is one of the many things I love about her and so I hope she’ll love the rather bright result of me dyeing too many colours together. This is an 8 row cable pattern repeat from my trusty harmony guide (published in 1983!) of cable and lace stichesThis time I’ve used some more hand dyed yarn. Yarn was from Fibre Harvest (I think) and dye is from the lovely Tall Yarns n Tales both of whom had stalls at Unravel this year.
Round 1 – pm, k1, inc 1, k10, inc 1, k1, pm, k1, inc 1, k10, inc 1, k1 (28sts)
Round 2 – knit all sts
Round 3 – K1, Inc 1, knit until 1 st before marker, inc 1, k2, inc 1, knit until 1st before last st, inc 1, k1 (32sts)
Round 4 – knit all sts
Continue, repeating these 4 rows until 56 sts:Round 1 – K1, inc 1, knit until 1st before marker, inc 1, k1, knit all across bottom
Next round – knit all sts
Next round – Repeat 1st round (only increasing on top)
You will then have 60 sts – 32 on front of sock, 28 on bottom – this is to allow for the tightening of cables across the top. The bottom is just knit stitches on every round so I’m just going to detail the 32 sts of the top of the sock
Main body of sock – cable pattern
Round 1 – K1, P2 [T3F, T3B, T3F], p2, k4, p2, [T3F, T3B, T3F], p2, k1
Round 2 – K1, P2 [p1, k4, p2, k2] p2, k4, p2, [p1, k4, p2, k2], p2, k1
Round 3 – K1, p2 [p1, C4B, p2, k2], p2, k4, p2 [p1, C4B, p2, k2], p2, k1
Round 4 – as Round 2
Round 5 – K1, p2 [T3B, T3F, T3B], p2, k4, p2, [T3B, T3F, T3B], p2. k1
Round 6 – K1, p2 [k2, p2, k4, p1], p2, k4, p2, [k2, p2, k4, p1], p2, k1
Round 7 – K1, p2 [k2, p2, C4F, p1], p2, k4, p2, [k2, p2, C4F, p1], p2. k1
Round 8 – as Round 6
Continue until 3cm away from correct heel length, finishing on Round 8
Heel turn
Using the 28 sts on the bottom (leaving front 32 sts on two needles)
Row 1 – k27, turn
Row 2 – sl1, p26, turn
Row 3 – sl1 purlwise, k25, turn
Row 4 – sl1, p24, turn
Continue until there are 9 “turned” sts at each end
Next row – in this you’ll be bringing the non active sts back into action
Row 1 – Sl1 purlwise, Knit til one stitch before the gap, ssk, pick up stitch, turn
Row 2 – Sl1, purl til one stitch before the gap, p2tog, pick up stich, turn
Continue until all 28 sts back in action – pick up 2 sts at the end of the last 2 rows (32sts)
Starting on Round 1 of cable pattern continue round whole sock – 32 sts front and 32 sts back and continue in pattern until desired length (finishing on round 8 )
Cuff
Round 1 – k1, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, p2tog, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, p2tog, k1 x 2
Round 2 – k1, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k1 x 2
Repeat round 2 until cuff desired length
Stretchy Cast off
Used this amazing stretchy cast off, a sister to Judy’s magic cast on, if you will which I’m going to use for all toe up socks from here on in: stretchy cast off
Apologies for the quality of the image, I forgot to take a photo before giving them to Sue and she did her best to capture them for me!
My plan last year was to try and make something for all my friends who’ve turned 30, rather than buy them something. The Skywalker mitts were for my old housemate Jessica and these socks were for my other housemate Jo.
Again, I’ve used some Kool Aid dyed yarn and the pooling of the colours is really lovely!
DISCLAIMER: I made these a while ago, forgetting to write the pattern down as I went so this is an estimated version of what I knitted – feel free to let me know if anything is wrong!
Using 3mm needles CO 62 sts, join in the round and split equally over 4 needles (16 and 15 sts on needles 1&2, 16 and 15sts on needles 3&4)
I felt the lace pattern shaping was too pretty to lose with a ribbed top so went straight into it.
Lace Pattern
This is the same lace fern pattern as I’d used for the scarf previously. As the pattern calls for multiples of 9 (+4) it took some working out to knit in the round. It’s basically 27sts+4 x 2
Round 1: knit
Round 2: Needles 1&2: K3, *yf, K2, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, yf, k1; rep from * to last st, k1 Needles 3&4: repeat pattern as per needles 1&2
Round 3: knit
Round 4: Needles 1&2: K2, *yf, K2, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, yf, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2Needles 3&4: repeat pattern as per needles 1&2
Repeat these 4 rows until desired leg length ending on Round 4
Heel flap
With 31 sts on needles 1&2 continue lace pattern, except purl Row 1 and 3 instead of knit it
Continue for 2.5 inches
Heel
First row: K20, SSK, k1, turn
Next row: Sl1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn
Next row, K until 1 st from gap, SSK, K1, turn
Continue until all heel stitches are worked
Gusset
Pick up 15 sts along side of flap, knit in lace pattern (you’ll be on Round 1 of the pattern) across front stitches, pick up 15 sts along other side. Beginning of each round will now be in the middle of the sole of the foot.
Next round: Needle 1 – Knit across sole until last 3 sts, k2tog, Needles 2&3 – knit Round 2 of lace pattern, Needle 4 – k1, ssk knit to end.
Round 2: knit all sole stitches and continue in lace pattern on top of sock.
Continue with these decreases until there are 62sts on each needle (31sts on top, 31 on bottom)
Continue foot until it is the right length and start decreases
Next row (starting at the bottom of the foot needle 1):
Needle 1: Knit until 3 sts from end of needle. k2tog, Needle 2: K1, ssk, k until last 3 sts end of Needle 3 – k2tog and K1, Needle 4: k1, ssk, k to end of needle.
Knit across all stitches on the next 2 rounds then repeat decrease as above.
From then on decrease every other round until there are 30 sts – 15 on the top, 15 on the bottom
Bind off using kitchener stitch
My dear friend Jack bought me a yarn voucher for my birthday last year and I promised myself that I’d make him a pair of socks from the yarn I bought. I’ve known Jack since college and one thing he’s always seemed to have is holy socks so I feel his feet deserve to have a lovely pair of thick socks to keep him warm.
I chose a manly khaki colour and decided on a rib pattern. However, as I’ve knit them up they look exactly like the sweater my brother’s action man had when we were kids, hence the name. It’s also a friendly dig at Jack who is many things but definitely not an “Action Man”!
As I know Jack wears his socks out, I decided on a super enforced heel that keeps the rib pattern.
Using Sock weight wool of your choosing and 2.5mm CO 72 sts and split across 4 needles (18 per needle) – this can be amended providing it’s a multiple of 6.
Cuff:
Knit 4, Purl 2 – repeat to end of round
Continue pattern until cuff is desired length
Heel Flap
With 36 sts
1st row: Sl1, K1, Sl1, K1, Sl1 purl wise (with yarn in front), P1 – repeat until last st, P tbl
2nd row: Sl1, K1, P4, K2, P4 – repeat until last st, Ktbl
Repeat these rows 17 more times
Turning the heel
1st row: K21, ssk, k1, turn
2nd row: Sl1 purlwise, P8, p2tog, p1, turn
3rd row: Sl1, K until 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn
4th row: Sl1 purlwise, P until 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn
Continue in this manner until all heel sts are worked.
Gusset
pick up 18sts along heel flap, continue rib pattern across top 36 sts, pick up 18sts along other side of heel flap
Next and every other round until back to 72sts: K heel sts until 3 sts away from front 36 sts, k2tog, k1, knit 36 top sts in rib pattern, k1, ssk of other side
Round 2: Knit all heel sts, rib 36 top sts
Continue until 72sts in total (36 top of foot sts in rib, 36 bottom sts in stocking stitch)
Next round: Increase ribbing down each side of foot by purling 2 sts before top 36 and k4, p2 on first 6 sts after 36 sts – this creates a more attractive integrated ribbing on the top of the foot.
Toe Decrease
As these are for a man with fairly long toes, I did the first 3 decrease rounds over 9 rounds rather than 6.
First round (with sts split equally over the needles with split in the middle of the sock and at the exact edges) Needle 1 is left hand side of bottom of sock
Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to end
Needle 3: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog, k1
Needle 4: k1, ssk, knit to end
Next 2 rounds: Knit all stitches
Repeat twice more
After this, continue decrease round every other round until 18 sts are left on the front of the sock and 18 sts left on the bottom.
Finish in Kitchener stitch
These were almost called Grandmother’s Footsteps as they’re bed socks for my Grandmother who is 88 and gets cold feet in bed but as I started to knit them up, the yarn started to resemble Raspberry Ripple Ice cream. I dyed the yarn (organic Australian merino from Briana Llae – gorgeous yarn http://www.bknitwear.com) using Kool Aid.
Using 3mm needles CO 64 sts, join in the round and split equally over 4 needles
K2,P2 rib for an inch
Lace Pattern
This is an 11st lace pattern worked over 16sts on each needle, for the first sock K3 at the beg of each needle and K2 at the end of each needle. For the 2nd sock K2 at the beg, and K3 at the end. This helped me reverse the pooling around the ankle (although that might have been luck!). It’s also an 8 round stitch repeat, for ease of counting I’ve used this to base the length of each section.
Round 1: P2, k2tog, [k1, yf] twice, k1, sl1, k1, psso, p2
Round 2 and every alt row: P2, k7, p2
Round 3: P2, k2tog, yf, k3, sl1, k1, psso, p2
Round 5: P2, k1, yf, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, yf, k1, p2
Round 7: P2, k2, yf, sl1, k2tog, psso, yf, k2, p2
Round 8: as round 2
Repeat these 8 rounds 2 more times (you’ll have 3 ‘crosses’)
Heel flap
With 32 sts continue lace pattern, reversing stitches on the wrong side: (P3, K2, P7, K2, P5, K2, P7, K2, P2)
Continue for 24 rows (3 x pattern repeat)
Heel
First row: K19, SSK, k1, turn
Next row: Sl1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn
Next row, K until 1 st from gap, SSK, K1, turn
Continue until all heel stitches are worked (20 sts on needle)
Gusset
Pick up 14 sts along side of flap, knit in lace pattern (you’ll be on Round 1 of the pattern) across front 32 stitches, pick up 14 sts along other side (80 sts in total – 32 for front of socks, 48 for bottom of foot). Beginning of each round will now be in the middle of the sole of the foot.
Next round: Knit across sole until last 3 sts, k2tog, knit Round 2 of lace pattern across 32sts, k1, ssk knit to end.
Round 2: knit all sole stitches and continue in lace pattern on top of sock.
Continue with these decreases until there are 16 sts on each needle.(32st lace pattern on top, 32 sts for sole)
Continue foot until it is 2.5″ from the end of your toes (or longer if you have long toes!) and start decreases
Next row (starting at the bottom of the foot needle 1):
Needle 1: Knit until 3 sts from end of needle. k2tog, Needle 2: K1, ssk, k until last 3 sts end of Needle 3 – k2tog and K1, Needle 4: k1, ssk, k to end of needle.
Knit across all stitches on the next 2 rounds then repeat decrease as above.
From then on decrease every other round until there are 32 sts in total – 16 on the top, 16 on the bottom
Bind off using kitchener stitch
These mittens were inspired by the Jaywalker socks by Grumperina, the first socks I ever knitted. When trying to decide what to call them I asked my OH (explaining about the sock pattern) and being a Star Wars fan he came up with Skywalker!
I love the Chevron and the way they stay up on your feet so I thought I’d experiment with some fingerless mittens. Rather than use some self striping yarn I thought I’d also experiment switching colours in the round. This pattern helps to ‘hide’ the small shift from each round. I found twisting the different colours at the round helped to reduce any gaps. The thumb gusset increases are slightly different to conventional ones, in order to keep the decrease pattern running up the thumb (see picture below).
I used 3 colours of Rowan 4 Ply soft (Blue – A, Rose – B, Pink – C) and 3mm DPNs
Abbreviations:
kfb: knit front and back of stitch
p2sso: pass 2 slip stitches over
Cast on 60 stitches with A and split 15 on each needle
Round 1: Knit all stitches
Round 2: [kfb, k5, sl2, k1, p2sso, k5, kfb] across each needle
Repeat these 2 rounds once more
Change to B and repeat the 2 rounds above twice.
Change to C and continue in pattern
Continue switching colours B and C every 4 rounds until you’re happy with the length – the ones above have 5 colour repeats
Thumb Gusset
At the next colour repeat (knit round)
Round 1: (first needle) K5, kfb, k3, kfb, K5, knit all stitches on remaining needles
Round 2: (first needle) kfb, k6, sl2, k1, psso, k6, kfb. (remaining needles) kfb, k5, sl2, k1, p2sso, k5, kfb
Round 3: (first needle) K5, kfb, k5, kfb, K5, knit all stitches on remaining needles
Round 4: (first needle) kfb, k7, sl2, k1, p2sso, k7, kfb. (remaining needles) kfb, k5, sl2, k1, psso, k5, kfb
Continue with the above decreases until there are 31 stitches on the 1st needle (continuing to switch colour every 4 rounds).
Next round: knit 5, put 21 stitches onto some waste yarn, CO 5 sts, rejoin to remaining 5 sts on 1st needle, knit round all stitches (60 sts)
Round 2: [kfb, k5, sl2, k1, psso, k5, kfb] across each needle
Continue in pattern, with colour changes until almost desired length. For last 4 rounds, return to original colour and cast off.
Rejoining thumb
Place stitches across 3 needles, there will now be 2 chevrons on the thumb, one along the front and one on the ‘back’ (closest to the fingers) so will need some ‘tweaking’ to ensure the pattern continues correctly, there will also only be 13sts in each chevron, rather than the 15 for the rest of the mitten.
Round 1: k21, pick up and knit 5 stitches across gap
Round 2: k4, kfb, k4, sl2, k1, p2sso, k4, kfb, kfb, k4, sl2, k1, p2sso
Round 3: knit
Round 4: k4, kfb, k4, sl2, k1, p2sso, k4, kfb, kfb, k4, sl2, k1, p2sso
Continue until desired length, knitting the last 4 rounds in the original colour, cast off.
Sew in all ends and block to ensure the chevrons stay pointy. Although, as you can see from the picture, this works better at the wrist than at the fingers which tend to curl with movement.
January 2012 – have amended the thumb notes so the maths makes sense!
I’ve finally made the leap into yarn dyeing with Kool Aid. It smells to high heaven but it’s pretty effective to dye with.
This pattern is with my first attempt – it’s Pink Lemonade, Grape, Cherry, Lemonade and Mandarin – I’m not 100% sure about the colourway but the lace pattern (from The Harmony Guide stitch book) shows it off rather well.
Using 3mm needles and sock weight yarn, Cast on 58 sts (the pattern is in multiple of 9 + 4)
Row 1 (wrong side): purl
Row 2: K3, *yf, K2, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k2, yf, k1; rep from * to last st, k1
Row 3: purl
Row 4: K2, *yf, K2, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k2, yf, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2
Repeat these 4 rows
Simple but effective
I’ve had this pattern up for 2 years and only now realised that I’d not written the pattern out properly!
